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Mary Mazzeri

Carpentersville, IL

847-426-5089

Serving the Chicago region in the Fox Valley area since 1970

Group Classes

Private instruction

Behavior Modification

Board & Train 

  IACP Certified Dog Trainer/Instructor CDT

Housebreaking Made Easier

Instincts: Housebreaking can be one of the easiest or most frustrating parts of having a puppy, depending on how you go about the job. For the average puppy, following basic rules should make housebreaking faster and easier. All pups are born with a strong instinct not to soil their beds. After the first few weeks, when mom stops cleaning up after them, they will crawl away from their litter mates to relieve themselves.

When?

Pups reflexively need to eliminate within minutes of eating. The time extends as they get older, but during the housebreaking period, this time frame is 5-15 minutes for 7 to 20 week old pups respectively. Knowing this, you’ll need to take the puppy out soon after every meal or when the pup has had a drink.

Pups will also need to go upon waking from a nap or sleep. Don’t wait a moment to get them outside!

Pups that have been playing and running around for any length of time usually have a full bladder. That’s why so many young dogs that have been left outside for a while will come in and have an accident. Note: Do NOT leave young pups outside unattended, they are like toddlers and will eat injurious/toxic objects or otherwise damage themselves or your yard. As dogs mature, you can slowly add unsupervised time outdoors.

Pups that have bladder, or kidney infections or are on some medications will have to urinate frequently. Some puppies have a medical basis for urinary and bowel accidents. If your dog’s bowel or bladder habits are not normal, take samples in to your vet. Occasionally a pup that has had a slip or fall may have a spinal or pelvic misalignment that can affect the nerves that feed the bowel and bladder and this can cause these problems. (These are only diagnosable by a chiropractic veterinarian.)

Nutrition 

Some pups have bowel dysfunction because they are on a diet that may be wrong for them. Food allergies can cause a pup to have diarrhea or copious loose stool with excessively foul odor. Be sure you are feeding a high quality food that is nutrient dense but under 24% protein. These usually require smaller portions for the size of the dog, because the high quality food is better assimilated by the dog’s body. Feeding must be done on a schedule to encourage bowel regularity. Generally 3 times a day for very young pups tapering down to 2 times daily. (Any changes of diet should be blended over a few days.)Feed no food or water within 3 hrs. of bedtime.

Caging

 A sturdy dog cage can be the best friend you and your dog ever had. To a human, it may seem a jail, but to the dog it becomes a cozy, safe den- its personal space- where it can retreat to rest, escape confusion or adjust to new surroundings. If you travel with your dog, or leave him in someone else’s care, it is ‘home’ where ever it is set up. They’re available through pet shops and mail order catalogs. A crate should be large enough for your pup as an adult BUT it is important to partition it off as he grows so it is just large enough for him to stand, turn and lay down in. If the space is too large, the pup will use one end for his bedroom and the other for his bathroom! If a pup tends to soil, absorbent materials should be removed until your puppy catches on to the ‘hold it’ idea.
Start your pup right away. Set the cage up where you’ll want him to sleep. This should not be in a people bedroom after the first week but you should be able to hear the pup when it whines. You can feed the pup some of its meals in the cage and leave a safe chew toy. In cool weather you might wish to put a large piece of cardboard over the top and an old blanket for added warmth and security. He may whine and howl when you first put him in. Don’t worry and don’t weaken, he will settle down. This discipline is vital to his safety. Always remove all collars when a dog is crated.

Scheduling

When a very young pup has been quiet in a crate for several hours, sudden whining should be taken as a signal to take the pup outside. Young bladders may not make it through the night. (The time will gradually lengthen with maturity.) Morning is the time when a dog has the strongest elimination pattern. It is not unusual for a puppy to void bladder and bowel twice each morning-though not all do. Even as adults, dogs should be taken out first thing in the morning and once again right after breakfast. If someone is home, pups should be taken out again mid morning, noon , mid-afternoon, after dinner and just before bedtime at a minimum. For those who are gone during the day, arrangements should be made with a competent neighbor or pet sitting service for a young pup to be taken out at least every 5 hours. Inactivity allows a pup to hold its bladder longer but there are limits!

Patterning

Dogs are creatures of habit and learn through patterning signals. When you set up your pup’s schedule, you also need to be consistent in the signals you give your dog as well as learning its signals which indicate it needs to eliminate.
This requires CLOSE SUPERVISION whenever the pup is out of its crate. The pup should only be allowed in the room the person supervising is in. A 5-6ft. dragging clothes line must be attached to the pup’s collar, which will aid in getting control of the pup if it isn’t cooperative The level of supervision must be very high for the person to catch the pups signals (See next section). When the pup signals, you should signal back by asking the pup if it wants to “go outside?” and then immediately taking it to the door nearest the designated outside potty area. It is very important to GO WITH THE PUP to the potty area. The area should be about 12 ft. square . Be consistent in always taking the pup to the same location. Stay with the pup till it goes. Give elimination commands in a monotone voice “Go Potty” whenever the pup stops sniffing or gets distracted. Do not allow the pup to go outside the area. Keep it within the area. As it goes, praise quietly so it doesn’t get so excited it stops in the middle of the job and finishes inside. When it finishes praise more enthusiastically. It is very important that the pup receive this reinforcement the very moment it finishes, that’s why you have to BE THERE the first few weeks or months. After it goes it can then play for a while with you either in the yard or back in the house. Wait at least 3-5 minutes. If it doesn’t go, bring it back inside without play and watch it very closely or crate the pup. If its been a while since the pup last eliminated, you may need to take it out again soon.

Signals

Pups give various signals and you’ll need to learn your pup’s own way of telling you that it has to go.

•   Whining is-usually distinctive, once you learn to recognize it. Some pups bark, paw or stare at you.

•   Circling or pacing, acting unsettled or frantic.

•   Sniffing- especially when combined with the other signals.

•   Going to the door to the outside area.

Accidents

 (Catching and cleaning)

Being present to tell your pup its wrong when it starts to have an accident is just as important as being present to tell your pup that its a good puppy when it goes outside. If your level of supervision is high, you are more likely to catch your pup as it begins to go. Clap your hands together, stomp your feet and shout NO! You want to startle the dog while it’s doing the wrong thing. Go right in and get the pup (step on the line if your pup starts to run). As soon as you have the pup in hand, change to a calm, friendly tone and go right into your pattern. “Wanna go outside?” and take it right out the door to the potty area. It may not have to go any more but doing the pattern is important. You must be very calm and sweet with a pup in the outdoor potty area or it will think it is wrong to go in front of you instead of thinking it is wrong to go in the house.       
When you come in, blot up the mess, rinse with vinegar water to neutralize the ammonia in the urine. Remember, if you don’t have time to watch the pup, cage it, even if you have to run to the bathroom. A dog cannot live in a cage. Common sense dictates that the dog needs time for exercise, elimination, eating, rest, play and interaction with its people pack.   

It is not generally advisable to paper train a dog in the house because the dog becomes trained to the location. It is always best to immediately start the dog in the area you will want him to use.

Submissive Urination

Some puppies release urine when they are frightened or excited or have a full bladder. This is a whole different problem. It usually happens when someone goes to reach for the puppy or in reaction to some behavior directed to the pup which overwhelms it. Do not correct, say or do anything because that will only make it worse. Fortunately, most pups grow out of this. Avoid overly emotional greetings when you return home or first greet the pup when its been sleeping in its cage. Just calmly say “Let’s go outside” slip on the collar (leash can be pre-attached to save time) and get the pup out the door. Some guests you have may have this effect on your pup and you will have to teach them how to approach your pup to avoid the submissive urination. Be sure the pup has just gone outside and do the greeting on an easily washed floor or surface. Wait till the pup settles down a little, have them avoid looking at or talking directly to the pup, they should sit on a chair or on the floor and allow the pup to come to them. Even then, they should speak to the pup in a quiet voice. reach to pet only if the pup seems willing and avoid eye contact. Overly emotional greetings tend to develop many problems in dogs. It reinforces the hyperactivity of some, increases dependency in others and increases the level of separation anxiety for dogs which have this tendency. Always wait until your pup is past its initial, frantic, ‘ hyper to see you ‘ reaction before reaching to pet it. You should always greet your pup calmly. Be patient and be consistent:

Supervise or Confine your puppy until the signaling habit is well established.